🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.